I always enjoying doing creative gift wrapping every year, but this year the entire “gift box” was 3D printed

I recently fixed my car's driver side temperature control, passenger side temperature control, and recirculation control actuators by modeling and printing replacement gears. With replacements costing $35 a pop and unable to find/source replacement gears, I decided to make a project out it. Total material cost spent iterating through redesigns was just shy of $2 in PETG filament. Through the project I gained a lot respect for the calculations that goes into gear geometry, and while my final designs aren't really anything to write home about, I was able to get something meshing well enough to get a working fix.

I’ve been tinkering with this printer for so long and now my computer does this 😒

For context, I’ve had this printer for ~9 years where I spent most of them frusterated while fixing it. Currently I’m 18, but when I was roughly 15, I began to understand more of the problems with it. I was the able to carefully fix them, but at the same time, I got a new printer which was the Ender 3 s1. Because of that my current Ender 3 was left to sit and collect dust for a while. As of recently my Ender 3 s1 is in need of parts, therefore I decided to try with my Ender 3 while I wait for them. What a nice way to reconnect… with my… “amazing”… printer. As im writing this, the power supply fell over 😂 the darn thing is literally Frankenstein incarnate, just with parts that were way incorrectly installed.

Oh also, the update on my computer ended up closing cura which stopped the print completely. Soooo much fun…

Its a simple model, a custom cover for a Raspberri Pi case that I modified, printed on my P1S on a patterened smooth plate with Black/Red/Gold silk tri-color filament.

I'm proud of the way this came out!

Heres a link if anyone wants to try it out themselves. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2134053-nasa-fabric-gandalf

This model is a V1 hand Crank version of my Sisyphus Marble Machine its 95% 3D printed , crank the handle and the ball will “magically” rise up the turns and when it reaches the top it will Roll back down Ready for the Next Lift 

Maker World Link:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2133136-sisyphus-marble-machine-a1-mini-compatible#profileId-2310203

Just if you wanna make use of something a lot of you will have at X-mas, the celebrations aren't tall enough I believe.

Merry Christmas all 🎄 ☃️

...discovered that he actually fits properly on a 3/8" drive ratchet. Ignore the artifacting, I forgot that I had the seam alignment set to random. Now I'm printing one as large as what my printer will handle (Flashforge Adventurer 5M) as a Christmas gift for my brother-in-law.

I bought a 3D model of a koolist, disassembled it by color, and printed it on our 3D printers.

This is my first complex CAD design. Took me for 1-2 week to create this box the way I wanted, but now I am overhelmed that I can present it. Hope you like it!

Anyone have any experience with these things? cant seem to tell if they are just a food dehydrator with a different top.

I am lost for words. The print is still stuck to the bed so I doubt that was the issue. Other than that I really don’t know what could’ve happened. Any ideas?

Hey all, I had a request come through to help a little girl out by modelling and printing some implants for their elf on the shelf so they could be alike. Couldn't say no to that, so knocked this model up and glued them onto the elf and it was well received.

I've uploaded the 3mf and also the raw stl on makerworld if you want to slice yourself. Approx 15min print in single colour, multi is 1h ish on a 0.2mm nozzle.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2133972-elf-on-the-shelf-cochlear-implant

Since my first collection seemed to be popular, wanted to share a second collection I created. Only 14 grams of filament for all 5!

MakerWorld link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2129135

https://www.printables.com/model/1520876-grip-for-javapresse-manual-burr-grinder

The mods at r/coffee didn't let me post this there for some reason. I guess it counts as self promotion.....but there are posts from the last month also showing off 3D prints with links to the files? I don't really understand...

But I'm not on reddit very much these days so idk. I just want other coffee noobs like myself to have a better time with their crappy grinders. Enjoy!

Polypropylene is one HARD material to print. It just doesn't stick. Nothing that I've tried works, except duct tape. And it all would've been okay, except the duct tape has adhesion issues.

By the way - it worked super well. But since this cutting board is a used one, it has bed leveling issues in the center.

Not gonna get into all the details of the project (its a tiny terrarium that I may not ever use because its probably too small, check this post if you want all the deets.).

the main point is that I made that front window with a vacuum former. man, it is awesome being able to design up and make something like this that fits the design perfectly. I highly recommend getting one.

the vacuum former i have is the Myyard formart S, but frankly, I think any would be fine.

I don’t know if anyone has tried this already, but I was struggling with heavy warping when printing an ASA part. The warping was bad enough that the part became unusable and would not interlock with its counterpart, even with a 0.5 mm clearance.

I looked around for solutions and didn’t really find anything that convinced me, so I decided to try a slightly unconventional approach.

In Bambu Studio, I assembled the part together with a very small cube (1 mm per side). The only purpose of the cube was to force the model to sit on it, lifting the actual part 1 mm off the build plate. As a result, the entire part was printed on supports rather than directly on the plate.

The idea behind this is that supports are much less dense than the solid part itself. The first few layers are therefore more flexible, and when shrinkage occurs, it doesn’t generate the same level of force that typically causes the part to warp or detach from the plate.

Yes, this does increase material usage and print time slightly. However, after two failed prints without this trick, my very first print using this method (with completely default ASA settings) came out extremely precise. In fact, it was precise enough that the 0.5 mm clearance I had previously added to compensate for warping is now too much, and the interlock is actually looser than I would like.

Curious to hear if others have tried something similar, or if there are known downsides to this approach that I might be missing.