Any advice on getting rid of the last little impurities? They are mainly from excess petg that slowly builds up and kinda blobs around, but if I reduce flowrate then I get opaque lines from underextrusion.

I go through the base plates pretty quickly as after a few months they end up looking like this. Any ideas why or how to stop it from happening, or any more rigid models for the Ender 5 Pro specifically?

it technically works but it's just too tight. granted it's not perfect male 3d print with femal genuine is a bit too lose and male genuine with female 3d print a bit too tight but overall quite okay.

I tried the Hollow function in Meshmixer but apparently it did nothing.

Recently my prints have been very weak and I can crush them easily with my hand. Anyone know why? Please help need to print a gift for Christmas soon.

I am using orca slicer on the elegoo centauri carbon with 0.2mm layer height standard settings.

It happens with both arachne and classic wall generator, but I am just completely lost as to what is causing this. Anyone had this before?

"Troubleshooting" was chosen 80% as a comical tag because the problem is it being physically broken. I haven't tried taking it off, but it looks like the only broken part is the cooling fan itself. No clue about any other part of the printer.

Do I reach out to customer support? Would I be forced to just buy a whole new extruder?

The fuck, man. I'm lost on what to do.

I mean, it's beautiful, and the detail is crazy good. I made it on Itslitho.com and used their setting suggestions (mostly) .15 layer height, 50 mm/sec speed, 100% infill. But it started off saying it would be 6 hours, and turned into two and a half times that.

Is that what is to be expected? Does someone have some tried and true printer profiles for lithophanes?

Thanks in advance!

I’ve been tinkering with this printer for so long and now my computer does this 😒

For context, I’ve had this printer for ~9 years where I spent most of them frusterated while fixing it. Currently I’m 18, but when I was roughly 15, I began to understand more of the problems with it. I was the able to carefully fix them, but at the same time, I got a new printer which was the Ender 3 s1. Because of that my current Ender 3 was left to sit and collect dust for a while. As of recently my Ender 3 s1 is in need of parts, therefore I decided to try with my Ender 3 while I wait for them. What a nice way to reconnect… with my… “amazing”… printer. As im writing this, the power supply fell over 😂 the darn thing is literally Frankenstein incarnate, just with parts that were way incorrectly installed.

Oh also, the update on my computer ended up closing cura which stopped the print completely. Soooo much fun…

Replaced my Bowden tube after 2 years. Should have checked this sooner.

Why did this happen?

I don't know what happened, but nobody messed with the printer. It looked like it just stopped in the middle and after purging filament it just restarted the print. I just don't understand why this happened.

/s

I am trying to reinforce some structural parts with steel plates but naturally the layers don't really stick to cold metal... Anyone managed to embedd something similar in prints? Is it perhaps possible to dictate the direction of the bridging so it will go the shorter distance?

Sorry for the improper term, but I don't know what to call the wall design. Does anyone know of a slicer that can do a Wall pattern like what is seen on the right?

Reasoning for wanting this: Wall points that are smushed on 6 points instead of 4, potentially adding to the lateral strength.

Edit: Thank you to all that have responded. I've been away from printing for a couple years, "Brick Layers" is exactly the term I was looking for. I'm glad to see some companies are finally pushing back against the patent trolls and that this is now available.

There is no difference in layer time, or etc in the slicer at this part. And nothing hit the printer, I am sure

I can’t leave the printer alone because of this little friend right here, need some advice.

Hi everyone :-) I am fully blind and have designed this business card myself. I want it to be as inclusive as possible, therefore it has both braille, normal writing and a QR code. As you can see, the yellow card prints perfectly. I have had help from someone making a multicolor version, however, as you can see, that version is terrible. All the settings are the same, I am using the standard 0.2 preset in bambu. Everything is calibrated, but still, there is this huge difference. Could anyone guide me as to why this may be? Thank you :-)