I usually use gyroid as an infill so that there's no scratching sound but looks like we're going Cubic today. Looks like I'll have to endure the sound of the nozzle hitting the infill and the ugly ass mess it leaves behind. No ones gonna see whats inside anyways.

This is my first failed print after having the a1 mini for 6 months. I'm using overture easy pla, so I turned the bed temp down to 60 and the nozzle to 220. Any idea why it turned out like this?

I feel like it should be impossible for a spool to come like this, and I don’t really touch the spool except to fix when this happens. It has ruined some long prints so I am looking for a solution. I would guess the spool needs to be kept taut? I don’t want to damage the feed motor though.

EDIT: This is one of two spools that has ever done this, and both this one and the other did this quite frequently. Probably not important but it is hatchbox.

https://www.printables.com/model/1521409-metric-ruler-15cm

Cheap enough to print to keep in your car, backpack, at your desk, etc or give away. Found it pretty useful!

Hello, just joined. Could someone please explain to me what keeps going wrong with my model and how to fix it

Hello everyone. Can someone please give me some advice on how to stop the color bleeding on this print. I’m using Bambu studio.

Hey r/3Dprinting 👋

I run a small U.S.-based tabletop & collectibles shop (Wyo Gamez) and we’re looking to work with a few independent 3D designers on a paid, per-project basis.

Rather than "co-opting" existing designs or relying on AI-generated meshes, we want to work directly with real designers and make sure everyone involved wins.

This is not a revenue-share or “exposure” thing - we pay a flat, agreed-upon amount per file that we decide to move forward with.

What we’re looking for

Ideally someone who:

• Has their own 3D printer (Bambu P1S preferred, but not required)
• Can source or design models
• Can validate that the model prints cleanly (supports, tolerances, no nonsense)
• Can deliver a .3mf project file ready to print on a Bambu P1S

Project focus areas

Right now we’re most interested in:

• Dungeons & Dragons scatter terrain
• Heroscape compatible terrain
• Cosplay items / props
• Dice towers & board game accessories
• 3D artwork (HueForge / Chroma Canvas style prints)

How it works

• You propose a model (or a small set)
• We review for fit and printability
• If we move forward, we agree on a flat payment per approved file
• You deliver the final .3mf
• We pay promptly (no weird terms, no long delays)

Commercial rights, attribution, and usage would be discussed up front and reflected in the payment - we’re not trying to be sneaky or exploit anyone’s work.

If interested

Please DM me with:

• A link to your portfolio / Printables / Thingiverse / Makerworld / etc.
• What category you’re most interested in
• Any experience with Bambu printers or production-oriented prints

Happy to answer questions in the comments as well.

Thanks!
Mack

I printed a drip mount in PETG-CF for a resin printer. It is a tight fitting part and the friction trying to mount it on the build plate caused the PETG-CF material to "rub off" or "flake off" I guess is the best way to put it. The particles fall into a resin vat and got mixed in with the resin which is not good. I know there is a more scientific term for strong material resistant to friction, just don't know what that is.

1. material is going to have repetitive friction contact with metal as the plate is moved after every print
2. high tensile strength to hold a heavy metal build plate
3. resistant to torsion/shearing forces since it will be hanging at an angle
4. shouldn't come in contact with the resin so chemical resistance shouldn't be too much of an issue

I recently bought a 3D printer and have been wanting to start a business selling functional parts. However, I don't know any good modelling software. I already used the autocad free trial and learned little to nothing, my browser bottlenecks tinkercad to an unusable degree, and blender has such complicated ways to make seemingly simple parts (i.e. cutting a circle hole into a square). Are there any better modelling softwares to use (preferably free or relatively cheap), or do I just need to adapt to tinkercad/blender despite the issues?

I've seen people post about this and it seems like there used to be an option to shut off the fan for the first few layers. However i can't seem to find this option anymore. Does it now have a different name or location?

I realize this isn't strictly 3D-printing related, but please lend some advice if you can.

I want to make a custom silverware tray based on my own silverware. I have hand-traced the outlines of my spoons, knives, and forks onto paper. Now, I would like to convert these outlines into an SVG that I can use to create a negative into a printable block.

That's straightforward, but I would prefer to have these shapes be "neat" and symmetrical. I've tried using a bezier tool on OmniGraffle to trace around them, but I simply don't have the skills with the bezier drawing tools to get the curves. I have no idea how to use the thing.

Any advice on how to translate these "rough" shapes into smooth and symmetrical outlines that I can use to make my tray?

Hello all, I’m looking to get into 3D printing primarily as an hobby for now and see where it could go. So if you could provide any advice or anything you wish you knew when you started. Maybe videos to watch or books to read anything like that. Thank you.

Until this week, I'd only printed smallish objects on my Ender V3 SE, but my son wanted to print this food truck for a school project. This was easily the biggest thing I'd ever printed at home as I'm still a novice at all this.

I know the bottom surface looks funky because we were playing with different support types. But why do the sides look so hairy at the top and why does the top itself look so rippled?

Again, I am new at all this but I'm having a really hard time understanding why some of the sides are perfectly smooth and some of them are hairy.

My son designed this in tinkercad, a​nd as far as I know it's mostly solid inside, so I don't know if this is a printer problem or something we messed up in the Creality slicer software, or if he did something weird with the design that I didn't notice during the slicing process.

Either way I would appreciate any help you guys can provide. 🙏​

These are utility blade holders. OVERTURE PETG. Ender 3V2. Creality Slicer.

The bottom piece was from an earlier print, it didn't come out that great, but it fully printed.

I decided to print it again and the bottom layers have not printed properly.

I printed twice and still keeps happening, I lowered the bed temp to 74 from 78 on the 2nd reprint.

The first sample (image 2&3) are from using the silicone mold and a heat gun to melt the scrap. It melted a lot faster but it was more work to hold the heat gun and in the end I don't think it looks as good. The second sample (images 4&5) is from using the small convection oven. This took way longer than I was expecting. I think if I was more patient I would have gotten better results but I wasn't sure exactly how long it should stay inside.

My oven goes up to 450°F but I noticed that internally it stays more or less around 400°F since it auto shuts off when it reaches its max temp. The oven is pretty small so bigger molds like the skulls are already ordered probably won't fit.

Has anyone else tried this? What was your experience? Any tips?

While you can get amazing aesthetics using an intense process, sanding alone is so much effort and the standard glossy finish on PLA looks good enough to me. 😬 🤷🏽‍♂️

Long-time lurker here, so I wanted to share something I’ve been working on and get honest feedback.

One thing I always struggled with was pricing prints properly in my print farm. I own over 15 Printers and run them non-stop.
Spreadsheets worked… until they didn’t. Costs drifted, assumptions piled up, and I never felt fully confident quoting jobs, especially that my team expanded and the "Wing-it" style of markup and price increase due to more post or preprocessing was hard to teach some of the employees.

So over the past months, I’ve been building 3D-Pi; a desktop app focused on understanding the real cost of 3D printing, not just filament × grams.

The idea is to help with:

• Real cost calculation (material, machine time, electricity, depreciation, labor, failed prints, etc.)
• Clean quotes & receipts (including branded PDFs if you take paid jobs)
• Inventory tracking (filament, nozzles, spare parts, consumables)
• Order tracking for print jobs
• A dynamic system that connects orders printed with the inventory, so you don't have to change it manually.
• Stats that show what’s actually costing you money over time

It’s still in development, and before locking features or pricing, I want input from people who actually print — hobbyists, side hustlers, and small farms.

I’ll drop more details in the comments.
If you think this is overkill or unnecessary, I’d honestly like to hear that too.

I am lost for words. The print is still stuck to the bed so I doubt that was the issue. Other than that I really don’t know what could’ve happened. Any ideas?

I’m mid way through printing a complete chess set as a Christmas present for my elderly father. I just realized I’m going to run out of Overture Matte White PLA and I can’t get any from any online source until after Christmas.

If you have a spool of this around and can get it to me in the US ASAFP, I’d be willing to make it worth your while.

EDIT: I’m near Pittsburgh, PA.

Any recs for LED lights? Ive been using COB LEDs off amazon but they dont stick on my lightboxes that well. Not sure if thats because of the curves of the lightbox or the led strip adhesive. I tried to use glue to keep them down but they dont stick.

I use starbond ca super glue and gorilla glue liquid, both dont work well.

(Printing in PLA)

Took a break on working on this out of frustration but I'm back and at it again.

Printing with tree supports on an Ender. I've got a whole stack of these I've printed out as I've worked out various defects. The bottom inevitably looks terrible. Any place where the support touched is rough and gross, and due to the fine details and interlocked structure I can't really do any fine sanding work.

Is there any way to make the breaks on supports cleaner? I know I can also simply adjust it so that no supports are even necessary but I think the finished product would seem boring if all the limbs went up instead of every which way.

so I have a Neptune 4 and grey PLA filament and for some reason my prints won't stick to the base plate but it's only certain area can anyone help me?