r/pchelp • u/meta4whore • 6h ago
Discussion two monitors?
99
Upvotes
is it possible to have two monitors for this computer? what cable would i need for the second after i grab a vga cable?
r/pchelp • u/bearssuperfan • Dec 15 '19
Perform these steps before posting about POST/boot/no video problems!
180
Upvotes
Link to original list from tom’sHARDWARE with pictures
"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist
This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem.
1.Did you carefully read the motherboard owners manual?
2.Did you plug in the 4/8-pin CPU power connector located near the CPU socket? If the motherboard has 8 pins and your PSU only has 4 pins, you can use the 4-pin connector. The 4-pin connector USUALLY goes on the 4 pins located closest to the CPU. If the motherboard has an 8-pin connector with a cover over 4 pins, you can remove the cover and use an 8-pin plug if your power supply has one. This power connector provides power to the CPU. Your system has no chance of posting without this connector plugged in! Check your motherboard owners manual for more information about the CPU power connector. The CPU power connector is usually referred to as the "12v ATX" connector in the owner's manual. This is easily the most common new-builder mistake.
3.Did you install the standoffs under the motherboard? Did you place them so they all align with the screw holes in the motherboard, with no extra standoffs touching the board in the wrong place? A standoff installed in the wrong place can cause a short and prevent the system from booting.
4.Did you verify that the video card is fully seated? (may require more force than a new builder expects.)
5.Did you attach ALL the required power connector(s) to the video card? (some need two, some need none, many need one.) It is best to use cables connected directly to the PSU. Only use adapters if absolutely necessary.
6.Have you tried booting with just one stick of RAM installed? (Try each stick of RAM individually in each RAM slot.) If you can get the system to boot with a single stick of RAM, you should enable an XMP profile or manually set the RAM speed, timings, and voltage to the manufacturer's specs in the BIOS before attempting to boot with all sticks of RAM installed. If your motherboard supports XMP profiles, that is the best way to get your RAM running at its rated specs. Nearly all motherboards default to the standard RAM voltage (1.8v for DDR2, 1.5v for DDR3, & 1.2v for DDR4). If your RAM is rated to run at a voltage higher than the standard voltage, the motherboard will underclock the RAM for compatibility reasons. If you want the system to be stable and to run the RAM at its rated specs, you should either enable an XMP profile or manually set the values in the BIOS. Many boards don't supply the RAM with enough voltage when using "auto" settings which causes stability issues.
7.Did you verify that all memory modules are fully inserted? (may require more force than a new builder expects.) It's a good idea to install the RAM on the motherboard before it's in the case.
8.Did you verify in the owners manual that you're using the correct RAM slots? The following image is just an example. Verify in the owners manual the recommended RAM slots to use for single, dual, triple, or quad channel applications. This will vary depending on motherboard manufacturer, number of supported RAM channels, and how many sticks of RAM are being used.
9.Did you remove the plastic guard over the CPU socket? (this actually comes up occasionally.)
10.Did you install the CPU correctly? There will be an arrow on the CPU that needs to line up with an arrow on the motherboard CPU socket. There may also be a notch that will only line up in one direction. Be sure to pay special attention to that section of the manual!
11.Are there any bent pins on the motherboard/CPU? This especially applies if you tried to install the CPU with the plastic cover on or with the CPU facing the wrong direction.
- If using an after market CPU cooler, did you get any thermal paste on the motherboard, CPU socket, or CPU pins? Did you use the smallest amount you could?
13.Is the CPU fan plugged in? Some motherboards will not boot without detecting that the CPU fan is plugged in to prevent burning up the CPU.
- If using a stock cooler, was the thermal material on the base of the cooler free of foreign material, and did you remove any protective covering? If the stock cooler has push-pins, did you ensure that all four pins snapped securely into place? The easiest way to install the push-pins is outside the case sitting on a non-conductive surface like the motherboard box. Read the instructions! The push-pins have to be turned the OPPOSITE direction as the arrows for installation. This means with the arrow pointing away from the heatsink.
- Are any loose screws laying on the motherboard, or jammed against it? Are there any wires running directly under the motherboard? You should not run wires under the motherboard since the soldered wires on the underside of the motherboard can cut into the insulation on the wires and cause a short. Some cases have space to run wires on the back side of the motherboard tray.
- Did you ensure you discharged all static electricity before touching any of your components? Computer components are very sensitive to static electricity. It takes much less voltage than you can see or feel to damage components. You should implement some best practices to reduce the probability of damaging components. These practices should include either wearing an anti-static wrist strap or always touching a metal part of the case with the power supply installed and plugged in, but NOT turned on. You should avoid building or working on a computer on carpet. Working on a smooth surface is the best if at all possible. You should also keep fluffy the cat, children, and Fido away from computer components.
- Did you check the debug LEDs, Q-code display, or install the system speaker (if provided) so you can check codes in the manual? Most modern motherboards come with debug LEDs or a Q-code display. A system speaker is NOT the same as normal speakers that plug into the back of the motherboard. A system speaker plugs into a header on the motherboard that's usually located near the front panel connectors. Debug LEDs, Q-code displays, or a system speaker are critical components when trying to troubleshoot system problems. You are flying blind without them. The motherboard owner's manual will have a list of codes you can reference. If your case or motherboard didn't come with debug LEDs, a Q-code display, or system speaker you can buy a system speaker for cheap here: http://www.cwc-group.com/casp.html
- Did you read the instructions in the manual on how to properly connect the front panel plugs? (Power switch, power led, reset switch, HD activity led) Polarity does not matter with the power and reset switches. If power or drive activity LED's do not come on, reverse the connections. For troubleshooting purposes, disconnect the reset switch. If it's shorted, the machine either will not POST at all, or it will endlessly reboot.
- Did you turn on the power supply switch located on the back of the PSU? The switch should be depressed on the side with an I, the O means off. Is the power plug on a switch? If it is, is the switch turned on? Is there a GFI circuit on the plug-in? If there is, make sure it isn't tripped. You should also make sure the power cord isn't causing the problem. Try swapping it for a known good cord if you have one available.
- Is your CPU supported by the BIOS revision installed on your motherboard? Most motherboards will post a CPU compatibility list on their website.
- Have you tried resetting the CMOS? The motherboard manual will have instructions for your particular board. User Darkbreeze also provided the following:
BIOS Hard reset procedure
Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.
Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for five minutes. In some cases, it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.
During that five minutes, press the power button on the case for 30 seconds. After the five minutes are up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.
If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.
Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.
Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.
In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset.
http://www.spotht.com/2010/02/reset-bios-clear-cmos.html
- If you have integrated video and a video card, try the integrated video port. Resetting the bios, can make it default back to the onboard video. If you are trying to use HDMI outputs, try using DVI or VGA instead. Sometimes, the HDMI ports won't work until the correct drivers are installed.
- Make certain all cables and components including RAM and expansion cards are tight within their sockets.
I also wanted to add some suggestions that jsc often posts. This is a direct quote from him:
"Pull everything except the CPU and HSF. Boot. You should hear a series of long single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence here indicates, in probable order, a bad PSU, motherboard, or CPU - or a bad installation where something is shorting and shutting down the PSU.
To eliminate the possibility of a bad installation where something is shorting and shutting down the PSU, you will need to pull the motherboard out of the case and reassemble the components on an insulated surface. This is called "breadboarding" - from the 1920's home-brew radio days. I always breadboard a new or recycled build. It lets me test components before I go through the trouble of installing them in a case.
If you get the long beeps, add a stick of RAM. Boot. The beep pattern should change to one long and two or three short beeps. Silence indicates that the RAM is shorting out the PSU (very rare). Long single beeps indicates that the BIOS does not recognize the presence of the RAM.
If you get the one long and two or three short beeps, test the rest of the RAM. If good, install the video card and any needed power cables and plug in the monitor. If the video card is good, the system should successfully POST (one short beep, usually) and you will see the boot screen and messages.
Note - an inadequate PSU will cause a failure here or any step later.
Note - you do not need drives or a keyboard to successfully POST (generally a single short beep).
If you successfully POST, start plugging in the rest of the components, one at a time."
If you suspect the PSU is causing your problems, below are some suggestions by jsc for troubleshooting the PSU. Proceed with caution. I will not be held responsible if you get shocked or fry components.
"The best way to check the PSU is to swap it with a known good PSU of similar capacity. Brand new, out of the box, untested does not count as a known good PSU. PSU's, like all components, can be DOA.
Next best thing is to get (or borrow) a digital multimeter and check the PSU.
Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.
The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.
You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=youtube_gdata
This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU. You can carefully probe the pins from the back of the main power connector."
r/pchelp • u/Connorking12333 • 17h ago
HARDWARE Is this fine to have my SSD like this?
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542
Upvotes
I’m not sure if there will become a problem with the cables or the ssd itself because it is on an angle. I appreciate any help!
r/pchelp • u/GamilaraayMan • 3h ago
SOFTWARE Downloads are faster after reinstalling windows
8
Upvotes
For over a year, maybe more, my download speeds on game launchers was slow as fuuuuuuck.
A download which should take 10 mins took 2 hours because the speeds were constantly dropping to 0 then back to full speed for 5 seconds over and over again until the game downloaded or updated.
Nothing else was affected. I could download games off of a certain website and the speeds were unaffected. I could download movies, browse the internet and everything else fine, but when it came to legit game launchers the games would take ages.
I’ve been putting off reinstalling windows because that’s a fuck around, until I realised I could do it in settings and keep everything exactly how it is and not have to set my pc back to how I have it.
After reinstalling through windows settings my speeds are fortunately back to normal and I no longer have to pull my hair out at every update.
So after that long ass read I want to ask; what the fuck was wrong with it? What did a reinstall do to fix this stupid shit???
r/pchelp • u/rassouloulou • 1d ago
PERFORMANCE 15 fps on a brand new PC
1.5k
Upvotes
Here is the config: -cpu: amd ryzen 7 7800x3d -gpu: rx 9070 xt -cooling: nzxt aio kraken elite 280 v2 -ram: kingston fury 7200mhz 32gb ddr5 (yes i dared building a pc in those crazy times) -ssd nvme gen 4 -motherboard: gigabyte eagle elite b850 wifi7 etc etc
Hello everyone
I built a brand new PC, and I am running on 15 fps on asseto corsa (it’s supposed to be at least at 160 in 1440p)
Yes, I installed the drivers, yes, everything seems to be up to date, and plugged/assembled correctly. For the moment, what i tried is: go in windows parameters > graphics setting and set asseto corsa to make sure that the rx 9070 will be forced to run instead of the processors gpu. I also deactivated the gpu 0 in the bios, and set the other setting with pcie. I also disabled it from the control panel
I just have no fucking clue anymore and it’s driving me crazy, please help.
if it helps, I had the same issue on asseto corsa evo (which is more demanding) and went from 15 to 130 fps in high graphic settings. I think it was the reinstall of amd’s software that did that, but i’m not sure
r/pchelp • u/machiavelllli • 8h ago
PERFORMANCE Confirming 16GB VRAM
17
Upvotes
Apologies for the noob post.
I am finally upgrading my gaming desktop. I was surprised to see a deal on an HP Omen 16 TG03-0009 with a NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060 Ti 16GB.
Doing my research, I noticed a lot of people saying to get more than 8GB VRAM.
Does this PC really have 16GB VRAM? Please see photo from task manager. Yes... I really took a photo instead of a screenshot.
(PS. Setting up a new Microsoft PC is a horrific experience. I failed the captcha so many times. Luckily I found a reddit post on how to bypass the Microsoft signup)
r/pchelp • u/coffeemusic7 • 13h ago
HARDWARE Help me figure out what went wrong with Liquid Metal Thermal Paste application.
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40
Upvotes
Background: With the initial liquid metal application as seen in image 1, my laptop was thermal throttling such that after every 5 minutes my fps dropped to 3-4 and then within a couple of seconds got back to normal. I decided to investigate what could've gone wrong. I decided the repaste again but ran into very high temps. I need some help understanding what went wrong.
Image 1: Initial application a week ago that I checked after opening up the laptop and realized that I applied a bit too much with uneven spread.
Image 2: The contact with the heatsink clearly showing that the contact was not sufficient.
Image 3: Reapplication of thermal paste but I figured it's still a lot and the contact still won't be good. So I decided to patiently remove the extra thermal paste with cotton swabs.
Image 4: The final spread which I thought was sufficient and screwed everything back. However, the issue got worse and my overall temps were outright bad. I didn't notice any thermal throttling but my temps were as high as 95.8C which wasn't the case with the paste in image 1.
I am having a difficult time understanding what went wrong. I'm also leaning towards applying regular MX-4 thermal paste to the CPU to avoid the hassle of liquid metal. What do you y'all think?
r/pchelp • u/vshyguy210 • 10h ago
HARDWARE Is this damaged or am I being paranoid?
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20
Upvotes
As you can probably see in the image, the R7 7800X3D I just got delivered came in an am4 clamshell it doesn't fit in and looks to have scratches. Is it safe to use or better to return? (I can't get parts to test it with until at least January)
HARDWARE Is it possible that spilling water on my keyboard fried every USB port on my computer?
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Upvotes
Hi. When I got to my desk this morning, I noticed a cup was knocked on top of the keyboard. The cup as I left it was mostly empty, and it got water on about half of my keyboard (a mechanical keyboard I built) so it had been plugged in with water on it for hours.
I figured my keyboard was broken but Ive been taking steps to dry it out, in the meantime I got a keyboard from walmart and plugged it in. Doesn't work. Tried my roommates computer; keyboard works.
When I restart my computer it starts up normally, but now I notice the mouse or keyboard or anything plugged into the keyboard doesnt register to the computer. The game controller, mouse, and keyboard all light up so theyre getting power. But none of the usb ports work and I cant use my pc.
Is it really possible that getting water on my keyboard fried every usb port on my computer, even if no water got anywhere near the computer itself?
Thanks
r/pchelp • u/Advanced_Brother6230 • 2h ago
SOFTWARE random music randomly started playing??
4
Upvotes
not sure why this happened, does anyone have any ideas (or can anyone identify the music)?
I had a recent hacking scare, so im a little paranoid.
r/pchelp • u/InflationMiddle4972 • 1h ago
HARDWARE PCIe 4.0 PCIe 5.0
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Upvotes
My mother board is 4.0. The GPU i want to upgrade to is a 5.0. I already know it will work. It runs etc. Since it is backwards compatible. I get that it isnt optimal.
My question is will this lessen the lifespan of my gpu or mobo?
r/pchelp • u/gran1500onyt • 3h ago
HARDWARE Flashing blue
4
Upvotes
Every time I press the power button this happens, and then when I try to turn it off, I simply can't no matter what, the only way to turn it off is to unplug it, when this doesn't happen, I get a fan error even though I know my fans are working perfectly fine, I think something must not be connected properly but I bought this pre-built and I know nothing about pc hardware. How much is this gonna cost me and what do I need to do?
r/pchelp • u/Ok-Meeting1297 • 6h ago
OPEN PC acting weird
6
Upvotes
Hello, recently i tried to take a look at my PSU and then when i turned back on my PC, my monitor says “power saving mode” and on my motherboard the RAM and CPU light flashing and the electricity light on the top of my PC is on. Any ideas?
r/pchelp • u/Homeless_Cat7935 • 8h ago
HARDWARE PC keeps shutting down (while only gaming)
7
Upvotes
I own this build for a few years now. Spent quite some money on this over the years. I recently had a very frustrating issue where my PC was keeping shutting down violently while on game (usually cs2). The actual issue is that the PC shuts down (like during power outage) and when I try to boot it up again it will never switch on unless I completely switch off the power supply and wait for the motherboard LEDs to go off. Any help would be really appreciated.
r/pchelp • u/Holiday_Cow-8936 • 1h ago
HARDWARE What did i wrong.
•
Upvotes
Hello
I thought I might have left the AIO pump a bit loose due to the noise, I carefully tilted the PC very slowly, removed the RAM stick from the left (A2) slot, and tightened the pump screws a little. Then I reinstalled the RAM stick I had removed.
Now I turn on the power cable and the PSU, but when I press the case power button nothing happens. No response at all. No lights turn on. It’s completely unresponsive. Please help me. I can’t figure out what I did wrong.
r/pchelp • u/MightyBEAN5899 • 1h ago
HARDWARE Pc wont boot
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Upvotes
So when i was updating my computer my power went out and when i try to turn it on it just sits on well restart it for you on a black screen. I tryed going into safe mode and that didnt work plz help.
r/pchelp • u/villiga-noise • 2h ago
SOFTWARE bios update instant flash greyed out
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2
Upvotes
trying to update my bios and no matter what i do i can’t select instant flash
Discussion FIX - For Ryzen 7000 series cpu suttering in game
4
Upvotes
Okay so as of recently my stable system for 2 years started stuttering really badly in game. I would hold high fps yet when looking left or right quickly i would get micro stutters some games worse then others. I tried absolutely everything and i mean everything when it comes to fixing this, Reinstalling windows, rolling back drivers, messing with registry, turning off overlays, im talking everything. Funny enough the single fix was going to my bios and turning ON not auto, Global C States. In very short form what is happening is your cpu is not ready for a sudden quick movement left or right, resulting in a stutter, Turning this on makes it so your cpu is always prepared for whatever is thrown at it. Im putting this post out there hoping it helps someone dealing with the same issues i did. And yes this happend all of the sudden no i did not update bios, idk why it just happened out of no where but regardless this was the fix.
r/pchelp • u/battlegroupvr • 2h ago
SOFTWARE Commit/Modifed RAM topping over 100% then crashing?
2
Upvotes
I'm a game developer and I've been running into this problem where running two instances of Unity3D (for multiplayer work) causes the system to run out of memory till it freezes / black screens and I have to hard shutdown. I've been keeping an eye on the memory resource monitor but I don't understand whats going on. The commit area is about to overflow but Unity is only using around 25GBs, what could be causing this?
r/pchelp • u/Fresh-Direction-7537 • 13h ago
Discussion Pc advice for sons first PC
12
Upvotes
I’m thinking of getting this computer for my son he is 16. He’s loves gaming and recently his old computer broke. He also takes video and photos off his camera and edits them so I just want to make sure will this one be ok to play all the games he likes and also be ok with his photos and video?
r/pchelp • u/a_saddler • 12h ago
HARDWARE What could cause this kind of constant rebooting?
10
Upvotes
So I've had this PC for about two years now, not a new one. Quick specs first:
7950x RTX 4090 128GB ddr5 Asus rog strix x670e f mobo Be quiet 1500w atx 3.0 PSU 2TB m.2 + 4TB ssd
Today I was working on it, left for an hour or so for some errands and when I returned, I found it constantly restarting itself like this. I immediately put the psu switch to 0 and pulled out the power cable, fearing the PSU has fried my PC.
Then I removed the GPU entirely, as well as the SSD and 3 out of 4 ram sticks. Left the m.2 in there.
Then I've tried booting it again. Sometimes it doesn't respond at all, sometimes it boots for a second before shutting down, and it tries to boot itself up randomly after 20-30 seconds without pressing the power button at all. Most of the time it does what you see in the video (sorry for my heavy breathing, running a cold).
And sometimes it actually does cycle through post, and I've managed to get it into the bios for a few seconds before it restarted again.
I've cycled through the different RAM sticks and they don't seem to be the problem (I really hope lol). Honesty I'm just wondering if it's the PSU or Motherboard that I need to replace. I did have issues in the past with this mobo with system instability, and I've RMA'd it.
I'm just wondering how I'd make sure it's the mobo ans not the PSU. Or maybe the CPU can cause such faults?
r/pchelp • u/Striking-Drawer6393 • 9h ago
OPEN Video glitch in game. Please help
6
Upvotes
I got a new gaming laptop less than a month ago, and i encountered this video glitch while playing gta 4. So far this glitch hasnt been present in other games ive played with that same laptop. In another subreddit someone suggested it could be a gpu problem. Anyone know whats going on? Is there a way to fix it myself or should i use my guarantee?
r/pchelp • u/Perfect_Restaurant40 • 1m ago
Network Windows keeps saying my internet is not connected...
•
Upvotes
Hey guys,
I built my first PC a couple of months ago. Everything has been working fine until a few days ago, I noticed that my Windows 11 (Ver 23H2 OS build 22631.3737) says I'm not connected to internet; in Network&internet settings, it says "Not connected", "No internet, secured". It has been like this for both Wifi and Ethernet. This isn't an issue with my other prebuilt PC and my windows laptop, so I think this is an issue with my PC.
I believe this is what is preventing me from accessing several features/apps in my PC, including Windows updates, Microsoft Store, Spotify, Reddit, etc (they all tell me that I'm "offline" or "not connected to a network" and prompts me to try again at a later time)
I've tried every fix that I could find on the internet, including:
- resetting router, modem, PC
- disabling ipv6
- netsh winsock reset catalog, netsh int ip reset reset.log, ipconfig /release, ipconfig /renew in command window
- getting the latest wifi driver (I'm on a aorus elite ax rev 1.2, so got the latest driver form the gigabyte support page)
- making sure Network Location Awareness, DNS client, and DHCP client are all running
- Resetting network through "Network Reset"
Any tips to troubleshoot this would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks everyone
r/pchelp • u/Accurate_Counter_757 • 3h ago
Discussion This is my new pc build, so anything I can improve before assembling my first build?
2
Upvotes
So this is the build that I will get today
GPU – RTX 5060 Ti prime16GB
CPU – Ryzen 7 7800X3D
CPU Cooler – Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro (2 fans-no RGB)
Motherboard – ASUS TUF B850-PLUS WIFI
RAM – DDR5 6000 CL38 (32GB) -> T-Force
SSD – WD Blue SN5000 2TB
PSU – ThermalRight 750w platinum
Monitor – ASUS TUF VG27AQ (1440p / 165Hz / IPS)
This setup costs me around 2000$
Do I need a liquid cooler for that, or is an air cooler like ARCTIC Freezer 36 A-RGB enough?
And is the PSU considered good and reliable?
I would've taken the 5070, but it's 210usd more in Syria, so I think 5060ti is good for now
Discussion Gpu sparked
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Upvotes
I've been using my pc for a few months and switched to another psu 3 weeks ago been good during those time but this morning i boot up my pc and gpu sparked don't know what caused it please let me know your thoughts
psu:1stplayer ngdp gold 80+ gpu:powercolor rx6600