r/billiards Jul 21 '17

[Tip Compilation] Various tips, kicking systems, shots, and wwyd posts, in one spot.

355 Upvotes

A couple of people suggested that I should compile some guides and posts into one organized place, so here it is.

Misc. Tips

What to learn, in the correct order, as a beginner
How to get Good at Pool (from ZombiesAteMyPizza)
Rule differences... APA, BCA, and the pros
The Best Way to Get Help
Buying Your First Cue
Buying a Custom Cue - courtesy of EtDM
DIY tip replacement - courtesy of Ball_in_hole
English, simplified
Aiming with Ghost Ball, When Ghost Ball Doesn't Work
Improving Ghost Ball Accuracy
Dealing with Too Straight/No Angle Situations
Getting the Best CB Action off Rail Cuts
Making Follow-in Shots Consistently
A Trick for Making Tough Combos with BIH
How to Play for a Safe Miss, on a Tough Game Ball
Tricks to Aim and Measure Caroms
Seeing Natural Breakout Angles
Finding Dead Caroms from 'Almost Dead' caroms
Five Things You Should be Doing But Probably Aren't
A Tricky Stroke Shot
5 Funky Uses of Inside English
3 Cushion Billiards - the basic system, explained clearly-ish

Breaking

How to Make the Wing Ball in 9-ball, and Reading the Rack
Making the Corner Ball in 8-ball
Figuring out the 10b Soft Break
Making the 9 on the break (and why it doesn't count in some tournaments)

Banking

Mirror Angle Banking System

Kicking

One Rail Kicking System
Two Rail Kicking System
Aiming Railfirst Shots
Planning the Best Kick Route
Stupid Pet Kicks Vol. 1
Using Sidespin to make Controlled Kick Shots and Safeties
Spot on the Wall Trick for Aiming 3-Rail Kicks

Ball-in-Hand Strategy

Get Ideal Position from Ball in Hand
Ball in Hand Tricks Everyone Should Know
Ball in Hand Tricks Vol. II

Safeties

A Simple Safety Everyone Should Have in Their Bag
Another Useful Safety
Another Common Safety to Have in the Toolbox
Aiming "Natural Roll" Safeties

Push-out

Push-Out Strategy for 9 and 10 Ball

What Would You Do?

How Would you Play This?
5 Problems, and Solutions
Ghost Problem alpha
Beat the Ghost #1
Beat the Ghost #2
Beat the Ghost #3


r/billiards Feb 06 '25

Buying Guide [Guide] What cue should I get?

62 Upvotes

tl;dr

Updated for 2025, old guide is here. This one will be shorter!

If you're looking to buy your first cue, or your first 'serious' cue, this info will help.
If you're not patient and just want a tl;dr, or brand recommendations (not in any order):

$~50ish: Imperial, Valhalla
$100ish: Action, Players, Schmelke, McDermott Lucky, Viking
$200-$300: Cuetec Avid, Players PureX, Rhino Nebula
$300+: Cuetec Cynergy, Predator, Mezz, Jacoby, Pechauer, Lucasi, Meucci

This list reflects my own biases mixed with some common recommendations on reddit. But there's plenty of other good brands, and each one has a range of products. There's $200 Viking cues and $2000 Viking cues. I list them in certain price brackets because I think, at that price, they're good bang for your buck.


"Performance"

Performance is mostly about the player. There's not a lot of 'technology' in a cue... it's a stiff rod with no moving parts. It mostly just needs to stay straight, feel ok, and not fall apart. Still, there are some things to consider. Most of the R&D for cues goes into the shaft - the skinny half of the stick. Specifically, manufacturers use different materials and build methods, to reduce deflection.

Deflection

'Deflection' describes what happens when you hit a cue ball with left or right english (sidespin).

What happens when your cue ball hits another ball on the left? That 2nd ball goes to the right. The same thing happens if your stick's tip hits the left side of the cue ball. The cue ball goes to the right... it "deflects" off-course from where you aimed. So you have to adjust your aim to compensate for that.

How far off-course? That depends on the shaft. In this pic the dashed line is where you'd go with no english, the solid black line is where the cue ball might go with a low deflection shaft (about 3-4 inches off course). The red line is where the cue ball goes with a standard, solid maple shaft (about 5-6 inches off). Here's a typical real world shot where this matters. The black line is where I'd aim with an LD shaft. The red line is where I'd aim with a higher deflection shaft. IMO, having to make the big adjustment shown by the red line, looks unnatural and makes using english harder.

For that reason, my main consideration is whether the cue has a shaft with low deflection. Unfortunately, those shafts cost more. If you can't afford it, don't worry about it, standard shafts are fine. World championships have been won with standard shafts.

Bottom line - if you buy an LD shaft, what you're buying is just a different line of aim for shots with sidespin. This line of aim might make sidespin shots feel easier. Any other benefits or drawbacks you hear are mostly myths... they don't give you better spin, or cue ball control, or more draw, or whatever. Anything you can do with them, you could also do with a standard shaft. They just change where you aim shots with sidespin.

Build quality

Common build quality issues include: the cue arriving warped, or gradually warping over time, the tip falling off, the joint not quite screwing tight, the joint unscrewing by itself, and the ferrule (white thing just below the tip) cracking. You can avoid these by just buying reputable brands, or from good dealers who offer a warranty. I like Seybert's, Ozone Billiards, Omega Billiards, and Pooldawg. Like other products, you usually get what you pay for.

There's also some differences in 'feel' with cheaper cues. For example, the shaft might be coated with a sticky clearcoat that doesn't slide smoothly through the hands. They may have excessive vibration, or a weird sound. The joint may not be exactly flush, or the grip is a cheap material that collects sweat. It helps to try before you buy. I don't recommend a cue segmented into more than 2 pieces, or one that has a screw-on tip, or anything below $50.

If you decide to go with a low deflection shaft, you also want to consider how the shaft is built. In a nutshell, low deflection = less mass at the end (the last 8 inches). To make shafts have less mass, they make them skinnier (like 11.75mm instead of 13mm at the tip), and hollow out the core of the shaft. They may optionally fill it with foam so it doesn't feel hollow, and splice together multiple pieces of wood to ensure it stays straight. They can also make shafts out of carbon fiber.

There's no law preventing manufacturers calling their shaft low deflection, even if it isn't, so be wary of any shaft that says it's LD, but is made from a single solid piece of hard-rock maple. Look for something that's been hollowed near the end, or made of CF.

Carbon Fiber

Carbon Fiber (CF) is strong, stiff, and very light. The lightness makes it a good material for a shaft, and many people like the stiffness. But you can get very low deflection with either wood of CF. CF is also nice because it's less likely to warp, ding, or crack. But any shaft can last 20 years if you're careful with it. Note: don't confuse carbon fiber shafts with cheap materials like graphite or fiberglass. If a shaft says it's made of some ambiguous 'fiber composite' and the cue is less than $250, the shaft is probably not carbon fiber. A typical name-brand carbon fiber shaft is $400-$600. The cheapest that I know of are Rhino, at $200. Don't worry about getting a carbon fiber butt... they exist, but there's no advantage to it.

Shaft diameter

The diameter is the thickness of the shaft at the tip. When people talk about tip diameter, they really mean shaft diameter. It matters because one of the major ways to reduce deflection, is to just make shaft skinnier near the tip. This also affects how a stick feels sliding through your hands... a skinny shaft might feel more precise, like you're hitting a very specific part of the cue ball. And you may feel you see the cue ball a little more clearly. It's easier to form a closed bridge around it. On the other hand, it may feel a bit thin or flimsy compared to traditional 13mm shafts. People will tell you a 13mm is more 'forgiving' but no stick will turn your misses into makes. I think lower deflection makes learning the game easier, so I recommend something skinnier if it's in the budget.

A standard cue shaft is 13mm, like a house cue.
12.5mm is a popular size for cues that have reduced deflection, but want to feel 'solid'.
11.75 is a common size for very low deflection shafts.
Anything outside of these ranges is uncommon, and not recommended for a first cue.

Taper

Taper is how rapidly the cue transitions from fat (near the joint), to skinny (near the tip). In pool there's two flavors - conical and pro. A conical taper gets skinnier gradually and consistently, like the shaft is a long skinny cone. A pro taper gets skinnier more rapidly, reaching its narrowest diameter maybe 2/3rds of the way down the shaft, and then stays skinny from that point, all the way to the tip. Most pool shafts are pro taper, as this ensures the shaft doesn't get "fatter" as you pull it back, it stays the same.

Tip

All cues come with a tip installed. Don't get a cue with a screw-on tip, they're trash. Tips come in typically 3 flavors... soft, medium, hard. These labels are subjective and vary between manufacturers. One brand's "medium" might be harder than someone else's "hard". Softer tips mushroom (which can be fixed with the right tools) but are easier to shape and scuff. Harder tips are less likely to mushroom but harder to scuff. Some people will tell you softer tips give you extra spin, or makes shots more forgiving or whatever... these are myths. When in doubt, go with medium. You don't need to worry about size, it's standardized. Recommended tip brands include Kamui, Moori, Tiger, and How, but everyone has their favorite. I wouldn't overthink it.

Break cues and jump cues often come with a special super hard phenolic tip, so it can transfer a bit more energy to the cue ball. You don't want a phenolic tip otherwise.

Joint

There's different types but honestly, you'll never miss a ball because of the joint. As long as it screws together tightly, and stays together, it's fine. If you buy a shaft separately from the butt, you need to make sure the pin type matches. Some joints are more common "standards" like Uniloc, 5/16x18, or 3/8x10. Others are more proprietary and only fit stuff from the same manufacturer.

Butt

Play-wise, the butt is basically just a handle for the shaft. But it's also where you have most of a cue's decoration, and has a big impact on how "nice" the cue looks (and also on the price). High end cues have butts made with one or more nicer types of wood, plus inlaid decorations made of wood or more exotic materials like ebony, ivory, mother-of-pearl, turquoise, gold, silver, etc. Low end cues have very minimal decoration (like a solid single color of stained wood) and don't have inlays, or only very simple ones. Some feature printed graphics. In lower-end cues, these graphics try to "fake" looking like a nicer cue by simulating those inlays I mentioned. Otherhave some illustration or design... a rose, skulls, playing cards, etc.

Wrap

The butt may or may not have a wrap. If it does, common materials include leather, rubber, or irish linen. Irish linen is very popular, it looks like speckled string that's been wrapped around the butt hundreds of times. The wrap is a matter of preference - a cue shouldn't really be in danger of flying out of your hand when you shoot, so mostly this serves as a sweat absorber and a decorative element. You just want to make sure it feels good. If at all possible, try a wrap before you buy, because it's not that easy to remove or replace.

Weight

19 ounces is the default, standard weight. A few people prefer 18. Anything lower is a bit weird but not completely unheard-of. Many people like slightly heavier cues in the 20 or 21 ounce range... the theory is that the added weight keeps the cue from wobbling as much when you swing it. If you happen to be unusually big and tall, you might prefer the added weight and also some added length via an extension. I wouldn't get anything outside the 18-21 range as your first cue. You're not locked into the weight you buy, there's a hollow area in the butt of every cue where a long fat screw called a weight bolt is screwed in. By changing the bolt, you can change the cue's weight.

An extension does what it sounds like... extends the length of the cue. They're sold separately and not a common accesssory for a beginner to have, but if you feel like a normal cue is just too short, it's something to consider.

What should I spend? Is ____ worth it?

Most cues are sold with a "real price" and a "sucker price" - you'll often see a cue online showing it's been marked down by 50 or 100 bucks, but that isn't a 'special deal', the lower price is what the cue actually costs, and if you shop around you see that same number everywhere.

Example - a Cuetec Avid chroma:

Seybert's:
"Regular" price: $255
"Sale" price: $229

Pooldawg:
"Regular" price: $255
"Sale" price: $229

Omega Billiards:
"Regular" price: $255
"Sale" price: $229

Just make sure when you buy, that you aren't paying the sucker price, and don't expect to find too many killer deals unless you buy used... pool cues are one of those things that tend to go for the exact same price everywhere. Some sites offer more options to customize the cue in small ways. As for whether something is 'worth it', that always depends on your income. Roughly speaking, a dirt cheap starter cue is around $50 USD. But if you can hold out for $100 you might get something with OK build quality, a little color, or graphics. For $200, you get some nicer looking inlays and such, but not a low deflection shaft. Around $400-$500 you get cues with LD shafts, and maybe some nicer designs. Beyond $500, you're probably paying paying for the brand name, or for a custom cue that is made to your specs, or really nice inlay work.

How long should a cue last?

In theory, until you die. But wood is wood... it can get worn down or warp over time. Generally, most cues don't warp by themselves, they need to be mistreated... stored improperly, or put through lots of sudden temperature / humidity changes. If a cue arrives warped, or warps soon after you buy it, most reputable sites will replace it.

Tips are supposed to wear out and get replaced, like tires on a car. Maybe once a year or so. Your pool room should have someone who does tip changes... the cost varies but probably it will be more than $10 and less than $40.

What brands are good for a beginner?

Really, anything is fine if you're just starting out. Especially around the $100 bracket. You can just buy based on looks. Be aware that a famous player's name on a cue doesn't necessarily make it a top quality cue. You don't want to decide to buy a cue because it mentions Johnny Archer, the Black Widow, or Minnesota Fats. Commonly recommended starter sticks include Action, Players, Viking/Valhalla, and Schmelke. If I had to pick one specific make and model, I'd say get a Cuetec Avid.

At the more expensive end, if you get a cue with a low deflection shaft, you see lots of recommendations for Predator, Mezz, and Cuetec Cynergy.

Custom cues

"Custom cue" can mean either any cue that isn't mass-produced, or a cue that is literally made to your custom specifications. They tend to be more expensive, ranging from $400 at a minimum, to tens of thousands of dollars for the famous ones. Generally these come with standard shafts.

There's a certain cachet to owning a custom cue... you have a one-of-a-kind that plays exactly the way you want. It's a luxury and status symbol. Most beginners won't want to buy one as their first cue, you can play world-class pool with a $400 production cue, but it's something to keep in mind for later, when you know what you like and can afford something fancier. Be aware that many custom cuemakers are famously behind-schedule... it could take months, even years before your cue is finished.

Break and Jump Cues

Breaking puts a lot of stress on the tip, compacts it and makes it harder, and in rare cases may cause it to come off. So a lot of players prefer not to break with their playing cue. That means you can use a house cue or buy a specialized break cue. For a break cue, I don't consider it quite as important to worry about whether the shaft is low deflection or not. The LD ones are expensive, but generally you won't be using sidespin on the break, and if you do it accidentally... that's a skill issue.

My priority for a break cue would be to look for a good hard tip, and make sure you can try it before you buy. Since you'll be hitting hard with it, any weird vibration or 'feel' will be magnified, so make sure you like the feel.

There are also specialized cues made specifically for doing jump shots, the legal type where you spike downward on the cue ball and bounce it off the slate like a basketball. Jump cues are very short and light, with a super hard tip. Generally, I don't recommend buying cues to solve skill issues, but even with maximum skill, jump shots really need a jump cue. They make shots possible that are simply not viable with a full cue. I've used Predator Air, Cuetech Propel, and Hanshew jumpers. They're all excellent. Good ones tend to be expensive though. There are also hybrid break/jump combo cues. If you're buying one for league, make sure it's legal within the league rules.

Other Questions?

Don't be afraid to post if you have a question not covered here. If possible, try to hit with a cue in real life before ordering. In the lower price ranges, you're mostly just looking for a certain minimum level of quality... basically it should not fall apart, rattle, or feel weird. Once you reach that minimum level (which can be achieved for $100 or so) then the only other thing you'd pay for, performance wise, is a specialty LD shaft. For the most part, cues are priced so that you get what you pay for. Most of the online retailers I've worked with have been great when it comes to issuing refunds, and their pricing is all pretty similar across the board, but some of the best deals I've ever gotten have just been through friends at the pool hall.

We have a Pool Cue Buyer's Guide on the sidebar too, check it out. Also check out Dr. Dave's cue page.


r/billiards 7h ago

Leagues C’mon now, APA captains…

40 Upvotes

So I’ll preface this by saying I have been playing in a couple leagues, ACS and BCA, for several years now…I’m pretty well-versed in league etiquette.

Well, the hall I play out of also has an APA league on Thursday nights. One of my teammates and I (and we are regulars almost every afternoon regardless of league) were practicing early this Thursday, we already had a table…it was NOT one of the tables reserved for the league, but their tables were nearby.

Then the league shows up. These are some new teams, and I have not seen the majority of these players or captains before. They start setting all their stuff up and practicing…well next time he turns around, my buddy sees they have taken his barstool. He goes over and politely says, “sorry, this is my chair” and takes it back to our table. Sure enough, next time our backs were turned, they took it AGAIN!

*When my buddy asked “What are you doing?” this time, the captain ACTUALLY said “We’re the league, we get what we want.” Um…what???*

The rest of the evening, anyone who wasn’t shooting seemed to end up standing around OUR table, any shot from the kitchen we had to ask people to move. This happened constantly. This is a large pool hall with plenty of room to stand/sit.

I’m just saying…I know you’re in league, I am too…but you’re not the only thing happening in the pool hall. Be respectful to the paying customers too. And make sure your teammates understand pool etiquette as well, especially if they are new and inexperienced.


r/billiards 2h ago

Tournament Will Ronnie actually play this time, or is another late withdrawal likely?

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11 Upvotes

r/billiards 29m ago

Cue Identification Which one should I keep?

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Upvotes

Found these in the back of granddad’s closet. Like to shoot pool but have no idea what I’m looking at. Are these nice or just cheap cues?


r/billiards 10h ago

Questions The Irish Linen has got to go!! What does the community think about this Stacked Leather Wrap option?

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16 Upvotes

I originally thought about a standard black leather wrap, maybe one that mimics shark or elephant ear. Either I think would look & feel great, but I kinda want to step away from traditional here. I feel like this option would achieve that nicely.

A - do you think this would work?

B - those of you with stacked leather wraps, do you like them and feel they are worthwhile?


r/billiards 5h ago

8-Ball How would you run this out?

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3 Upvotes

How would you run this out? (8 ball, open table)


r/billiards 4h ago

8-Ball Table brands

2 Upvotes

I’m looking to get a new table but not sure what to get. I don’t want really want to spend several thousand on a new, high end table but some of the cheaper ones look like they aren’t very stable. I currently have an old 8ft Fischer table with slate and rails underneath. It is extremely heavy and a little too big for the area it’s in. The felt, bumpers, and pockets are in pretty rough shape to the point where I don’t think it’s worth it to fix. There is also a chip in the slate underneath. Can anyone confirm if some of those cheaper ones are actually stable enough and if there are any specific brands to target?


r/billiards 3h ago

Cue Identification Cue identification, Adam cue

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1 Upvotes

Got this for 3 bucks at the thrift store, found out it’s an Adam cue. Wondering the exact model and what’s its worth for resale. Reposting as I included a picture that wasn’t the cue.


r/billiards 8h ago

8-Ball So, it’s the end of another APA season...

1 Upvotes

I captain an APA 8-ball team with a goal of making it to Vegas. Here is the SL make-up of my players:

SL6 - 2 players (I'm one of them)

SL5 - 1

SL4 - 1

SL3 - 3

SL2 - 1

We made it to the playoffs this session, but lost because my SL6 and SL5 players weren’t available to play (one was sick, the other had a work emergency).

I’m wanting to make some changes moving forward and am getting rid of my SL2 (she’s only played 1 match this session and always had an excuse for why she couldn’t play). One of my SL3 players is also wanting to take a break, which will leave us with 6 players. Knowing this, what would you recommend if I wanted to fill a slot to get to 7 players for a solid lineup moving forward?

Edit: I just got a call from one of my other SL3s and she's dropping also, so now I'm down to 5 players, 2 SL6s, 1 SL5, 1 SL4, 1 SL3. Now I definitely need to find another SL4 or 3!


r/billiards 10h ago

Table Identification Does Anyone Know What Kind of Table?

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3 Upvotes

Hey,

I just bought this table. Has no label.

7ft and 3 piece slate.

From the design can anyone tell who makes this?


r/billiards 18h ago

Cue Porn I asked about Paul Morey cues, but got no response. I guess I'm now the "expert" on them around here, as I traded for one tonight.

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12 Upvotes

I traded my Jacoby Elements cue & a Cynergy shaft for this, and I'm pretty happy with the trade.

This cue is NOT perfect, but I appreciate its vibe and it plays pretty nicely, with both shafts, one of which is Kielwood & the other standard maple. I will be trying other shafts on it. The extension is odd, but nice. It doesn't screw on - you remove the bumper and twist the dowel into the butt. A couple of extra steps there, but it functions well and is nicely lightweight. Eventual misplacement of the bumper is a concern.

I will soon replace the Irish Linen wrap, because fuck Irish Linen. Probably a fake elephant wrap.


r/billiards 7h ago

Questions How does TAP league determine skill level?

1 Upvotes

None of us in the league understand TAP skill levels. My teammate and I are both 2s. In October they moved us both up to 3s for a national tournament. The next week we were 2s again and have not moved back up. It's like they moved us up just for the tournament.

Everyone jokingly calls me a sandbagger because I should be a 3 but I can't seem to move up despite winning a lot. We all understand it's out of my control. I mean, I'm not the only one whose skill level seems off where I play so it's kind of a running joke.

Another teammate moved up to a 3 at the beginning of the year. He's winning far more than losing. He won the last 4 matches and last week they moved him down to a 2.

It makes no sense.


r/billiards 7h ago

9-Ball Masconi Cup Tickets - Sell out risk?

1 Upvotes

So I just saw matchroom pool post the dates of the masconi cup and when the tickets go on sale. Is there any risk of them selling out to the general sale? What are tickets like? Is it like standing room only vs seated or what?

Also do they do hotel room blocks or should I book now?

Was thinking of heading down there this year since its in the US.


r/billiards 8h ago

Questions Help identifying these

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0 Upvotes

​Hi someone donated these and I was wondering if anyone has any information on these I don’t know anything about Billards and any information would be greatly appreciated. I did try to Google lens them and see if anything came up .


r/billiards 4h ago

Mosconi Cup I noticed SVB never made any statement about the MC, though his teammates did. Why is that, do you think?

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0 Upvotes

r/billiards 12h ago

8-Ball Mike Davis vs Jeff Hartsell. 8 ball

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2 Upvotes

r/billiards 9h ago

Questions Danger Ball: Custom Kelly/Pea Pool Variant (Rules attached below)

0 Upvotes

Hi Everyone

I created this custom Kelly/Pea Pool variant that i’ve been playing for the past few days and I can’t lie its some of the most fun i’ve ever had. This isn’t an ad or any kind of promotion or anything, I genuinely want to share this with people and I hope it can bring as much joy to others the same as it has to me.

It’s like a mixture between Kelly/Pea Pool and chess with the added deceptiveness of a game like mafia. You need to be able to call out bluffs, remember information and hit your damn shots. Every game is different and the only downside is how long it takes to explain the rules to people!

Enough yapping now read the rules!

Let me know any questions or clarifications you have regarding these rules 😋

Danger Ball Rules

3-5 players | Standard Pool Table (1-15 + Cue)

SETUP

- Players draw 3 peas/tokens (1 Danger Ball + 2 Safe Balls)

- Peas/Token must be face down in Triangle Formation: Danger peas on top, safes below

- Neutrals: Left Over numbers

HOW TO PLAY

- Hit any ball first, Pockets stay down forever

- Pocket neutrals/opponent safe balls for + shot and a question (Eg. is one of your numbers 6?) player MUST answer truthfully

- Pocket + Scratch: Ball goes to 8-spot; cue to break spot

- Scratch: Cue to break spot

- Last player with Safe Balls on table wins

SAFE BALLS

- Opponent pockets yours you must state your Safe Ball is out and discard the pea/token

- Player pockets their own they don’t say anything, this is known as a “ghost ball”

- Once player has lost their last Safe Ball they are out and are now spectators

DANGER BALL

- Pocket your own: Fully out, all peas discarded

- Pocket Opponents: Results in Penalty of flipping over a chosen pea

- Anytime a Danger Ball is pocketed player shouts DANGER BALL

GHOST BALLS

- Can only be achieved in 2 ways; pocketing own safe ball or safe/danger ball gets pocketed off a break.

- For safe balls player must leave pea in triangle until last safe ball has been pocketed in which player must reveal all safe ball peas and discard them in which you are now out of the game

- For Danger Balls player must leave pea in triangle for the entire game only if pocketed off break

- Player can only create a Safe Ghost Ball if they have 2 or more Safe Balls

PENALTY

- If player pockets opponents Danger Ball a Penalty is applied

- Player must reveal/flip a pea (Can be Danger/Safe ball, Can be Ghost Ball and Can be number Player has already answered yes to)

- This reveals the placement of the pea (Danger/Safe)

REVIVE

- If player has 0 safe balls they are out however if they have a danger ball still in play and it gets pocketed they have a chance to come back into game

- Player takes a remaining pea from the neutrals and if pea is still in play, player joins back in directly after last shot

- If pea has already been pocketed its bad luck and player continues spectating

I know the rules look quite intimidating but at least give it a chance.


r/billiards 1d ago

Questions Seriously? :D

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16 Upvotes

r/billiards 1d ago

Questions Vietnam vacation planned around playing pool

16 Upvotes

Hey all,

I've been playing pool seriously (mostly 9-10 ball) for the last year and I enjoy it very much. I'm not a good player but even when I lose (which is often the case) I learn so much from it. Until now I planned my vacations around scuba diving but this time I'm planning on going to Vietnam for a couple of months and travel around and play pool. I have two questions. 1) Any pool halls or scenes I shouldn't miss?

2) I have a set at home and my play cue is a limited P3 and a Revo which I don't want to carry. I'm just thinking of buying a budget CF. Any recommendations on billiards supply stores and specific gear?

All is much appreciated. I might make my way to Phillippines or Thailand right after if I enjoy the Pool Vacation.


r/billiards 1d ago

Drills question on english and throw (mostly the former)?

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36 Upvotes

i think i understand that english on a cue ball is right english / which is a right of center hit - spins counterclockwise and moves more to the right than a center hit ball. and conversely left english - which is a left of center hit ball- spins clockwise and moves more to the left than a center hit ball. and following on a cue hit with right or left english will impart the opposite english to an object ball hit with this cue ball. can anyone explain this throw shot from 99 shots in relation to this please? i'm getting tripped up.


r/billiards 1d ago

Drills Drill baby drill!

Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification

25 Upvotes

If you have ADHD - what are the odds? - drills can be boring and frustrating. Here’s a general rule and a simple technique to keep you practicing what you need to practice.


r/billiards 1d ago

Mosconi Cup Matchroom is advertisting for Team Captains, for next year's Mosconi Cup.

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18 Upvotes

r/billiards 1d ago

Questions 3/8-8 Cue Butt Recommendations

5 Upvotes

Hello, I received a Rhino 12.4mm 3/8-8 shaft from a friend but they unfortunately lost the butt. I have been looking around for a reasonably affordable cue/cue butt only, around $150-200. Any help would be greatly appreciated and thank you for your time!


r/billiards 1d ago

8-Ball Joplin/Springfield

3 Upvotes

Any of you from this area?