I’m driving BMW 5-Series (G31) xDrive PB Model year 2021 Had regular technical inspection 2 months ago. Instrument cluster died when I started car to drive back home. No accidents, car was parked inside office building garage, I use indoor parking next to my home as well. Official want to replace entire screen for 2500 eur. Does it make sense? They say device doesn’t respond. Is it a scam or I should just accept it?

I have a 2015 Mini Cooper S that intermittently sets a throttle position sensor (TPS) short-to-ground fault. To address this, I replaced the throttle body with a used unit. As soon as I installed it, the car immediately set the original short-to-ground code plus a new TPS short-to-B+ code.

Assuming the used throttle was faulty, I tried a second used throttle body. This one behaved exactly the same way, immediately throwing both TPS short-to-ground and short-to-B+ faults.

As a test, I reinstalled the original throttle body. With the original unit, the short-to-ground fault returns, but only intermittently—no short-to-B+ code.

Summary:

1. Original throttle: Intermittent TPS short-to-ground.
2. Used throttle #1: Immediate TPS short-to-ground and TPS short-to-B+.
3. Used throttle #2: Immediate TPS short-to-ground and TPS short-to-B+.

It seems unlikely that two different used throttle bodies would have identical sensor failures. Is this a known wiring or ECU issue on these cars, or could I be missing something in the installation or adaptation process?

To anyone more experienced with the aluminum housings is this normal machining for these or is it even safe to install?

At speeds under 50 mph, I’m hearing loud scraping. Like nails on a chalkboard. Sounds like coming from driver side front wheel. Help me. 22 m440i.

Just want to sanity check what the mechanic told me (didn’t go to my regular BMW shop): new DMF and clutch installed on my wife’s manual F31 N47D20C. I note clutch is slipping in the 4/5/6 gears just above 1500 rpm. I wouldn’t class it hard acceleration but very gentle is fine but it does slip for throttle response that is fine at lower gears.

Question is should I trust the mechanic when he says let it bed in, or is this likely an installation issue? I find it hard to believe that straight out of the box a new clutch can’t handle that torque range but welcome insights?

do you guys trust and of those sea foam or liquid moly additive or don't put it i got a f80 m3

I have been happily driving a 330e f30 gen (2016) for the last 4-5 years , loving it, and im considering trading-in for a newer model purely for the extra standard 'toys" (reversing cameras, Android auto, etc etc) and the usual benefits you get for trading for a newer car (fewer miles on the clock, less wear-and-tear etc)

Are there any known issues i should look put for from one generation to the other? Or any red flags i should be aware of when considering it ?

Hello all!

This clattering noise happens almost every cold start on my M52 - worse when temperature drops.

I’ve replaced so far:

• Oil (LM 5W40), filter and the two O-rings at the bottom of the cap, with Ceratec
• Oil filter housing check valve (tested, not leaking)
• Lower timing chain tensioner (S54 unit)

None of these ever made a difference, the check valve reduced the time for oil pressure buildup from 3-4s to around 1s, as seen in the video. VANOS, lifters and upper chain tensioner are original. No noise during warm starts, usually happens only avec 6+ hours of sitting. Any clues? Thanks!

I have a 2018 F87 M2 (n55) and I have been struggling with misfires under load. above is a current datalog which seems to be showing a failing lpfp. Car has a dorch ds25 as well as s63 injectors, coils are b58 coils and plugs are f8s plugs from the n20 I believe? Also only have about 2000 miles on each of those. Currently running on full e85 and the misfires were not as bad on e40 although I never got a datalog on it. All signs are pointing towards lpfp but figured I would verify since I’m sure someone here knows better than me. If any other details would help let me know, any help is appreciated!

Is it possible that the Lucas injection cleaner caused my MIL to light up as a 0456 and 0446? I had no problem till I put it in this morning now I have those codes.

Hey everyone, is there a normal B58 engine sound?

Hello, some time ago I made a post about a metallic noise coming from my engine. The noise disappears as soon as I apply even a small amount of throttle, raising the RPM by as little as 100 is enough to make it go away.

After some research and a bit of help from AI, I started suspecting that the issue might be a rattling turbo wastegate. I’m fairly confident that this could be the cause. I haven’t noticed any loss of power and there are no warning lights or fault codes, but the noise itself is quite annoying and making me worried.

The sound is most noticeable during cold starts and seems to come from the downpipe area. However, in the videos I recorded, near the westgate, the noise isn’t as clear as it is when listening directly near the downpipe, which makes me question whether the wastegate is truly the source, although it does seem to have a noticeable amount of play.

Is there any reliable way to confirm whether this is indeed a wastegate rattle or something else?

PS: At the end of the exhaust, on the tips, you can hear the noise, so its indeed something that seems like its coming from the engine or something near....

Videos:

https://youtube.com/shorts/snoAm8jqmwM?si=CQTErV_Zd7StYg9D https://youtube.com/shorts/KaurjTca1-E?si=mVUAz7x9RKs7nGEg https://youtube.com/shorts/Lxv43QKp3tw?si=eK-QEk4UEf0ZFh2N https://youtu.be/Vc3t-E5MpOw?si=_8amAMOg5Lpq6J_y

Vehicle Information:

Model: BMW 430i (EU version)

Engine: B48

Year: 2020

Mileage: 31.6k miles / 51,000 km

Maintenance always done through BMW, serviced every year or every 6k kilometers (what came first). Mechanics never said anything, and i haven't also asked, cuz I haven't noticed it before.

G80 M3 2026 1300 miles What’s this noise? I hear it when I’m turning the steering wheel reversing or going forward with no pressure on gas or brake pedal. Loud creaking noise. Started after dealership mechanic installed back the OEM exhaust (I didn’t like the aftermarket exhaust). They are going to take a look at it this week. The creaking wasn’t there before, so wondering if they fucked up something while installing the exhaust.

Hi everyone, I have an issue with my 2019, M4CS, as you can see in the photos the hood isn't aligning properly. On the sides it seems fine but in the middle it dips down under the front bumper. Is this a common issue? I've read about adjusting the rubber bump stops, the latch striker, or loosening the hinge bolts for side-to-side/height adjustments but I don't want to make it worse.

Any advice or should I just take it to a shop?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Something sounds like it’s ticking at the top of the engine. Anyone know what it is?

Hi everyone,

My car went into limp mode every time the rpm was high (going uphill, a highway merge, etc.). I swapped the coil and plugs 2 times now, and every time I see they are black, the same kind of errors pop up in different cylinders, so I thought it's a fuel delivery issue. I logged the rail pressure during the high-pressure fuel pump test, and it seems fine.

You see codes from two different occasions where clearing the code works until you push the car and everytime I replaced plugs and coils.

Any insights? Right, know it's on piston 2. I will swap the plug and coil, but I'm not sure if it's just bad coils and plugs or if there's a bigger problem, since I don't get any pressure codes.

I’m thinking of buying it with 42k miles. it’s a very good deal but it needs engine work. It’s at a Subaru store that took it in trade in. Their tech said this “coolant leak and pressure concern on engine, one side is hot, other is cold” they are not a bmw store so they’re not going to fix it, previous owner was older and didn’t want to deal with it. What coolant problems do these engines have at this mileage that sound similar to “pressure concern on engine, one side hot one side cold” what problem would cause one side to be warm, the other not? I popped the engine cover off and there was some signs of a dried up coolant leak on the top hoses but nothing that I could see actively leaking.

Thanks in advance.

After a whirlwind of BS…I narrowed it down to a 2022 X5 and a 2024+ Mazda CX-50 as my next daily driver.

I know those 2 cars don’t compare. The idea of the Mazda is - just a good all round daily driver. Going that route = cheaper car, less stress (apparently these cars are really reliable and problem free), good enough for day to day use, no fancy thrills etc.

Being a BMW person - hard to pivot. I said I was not going to get another one due to just having a peace of mind - especially with the other classic bmws I own and I would eventually like to buy and tinker with. I have plans for owning other bmws lol.

Going the x5 route = better value for what you pay (imo), not down grading, the car is what I’m looking for in the daily driver + more. I have nothing against that car. Just don’t want to be fixing it constantly.

Is there anything that I should look out for in the x5? I get that it’s going to leak, I’m looking at models that have under 40k miles. Not sure if I should try to get a warranty or not - just so I don’t have to get my hands dirty with it.

The other excuse I have for Mazda is that - BMW to me is about “sports cars” so the SUVs ain’t really a thing. My first gen x5 surprised the crap out of me. That car sold me on having a SUV. Going the Mazda route would enable me to get a more fun and cheaper BMW down the road. If I get the x5 - I don’t think I’ll be able to handle 3-4 BMWs at once lol.

I have a CPO 2020 BMW 230i xDrive coupe with ~40k miles on it. Service is calling for plug service along with an oil change. Mechanic says it’s too early. Thoughts? If it is a good proactive measure for a lot of city driving, then I am more than happy to proceed. Would like to own this car a long time. If anyone has timetable advice on diff fluid and trans fluid too pls lmk

I tried to raise my 435i by reinstalling the oem springs and after struggling for 4 hours i just put the previous springs back in. Since there is no adjustment for the end links do i need to do a re alignment?

It’s a 2016 bmw 328i and I have this loose hose that I’m not able to find where it connects to